When it comes to building stairs, there are two different classes to consider. The first is a mill-made stair, which is pre-fabricated and shipped to the job site as a kit. The second is a carpenter-built stair, constructed on-site. The latter option is more cost-effective and allows for the stair to be covered with carpet. Additionally, a carpenter-built stair can be enhanced with hardwood or paint-grade skirt boards and complemented with a simple wall-mounted railing.
Functionality is crucial when building stairs, as safety is of paramount importance. It is essential to refer to both national and local building codes to ensure compliance. Each municipality may have different requirements, and researching beforehand will save you from potential rework.
After determining the code requirements, it's time to consider the design aspects of your stair. The quality of the construction materials used directly influences the finished product. Even if the material will be concealed by carpet, it's important to use high-quality materials to prevent future cracking and ensure durability. Lumberyards typically carry stock specifically for stair construction.
Layouts and Calculations
Before getting started with construction, it is necessary to do some layout and calculations. Begin by sketching a rough blueprint of your staircase, taking into account the size of your stairwell and ensuring sufficient headroom. For instance, if the distance between the finished floors measures 118 inches, and the maximum riser height is 7 3/4 inches, you will need a total of 16 risers (118"/7.5 = 15.73). Each rise would then be approximately 7 3/8 inches (118"/16 risers = 7 3/8").
The run of the stair, on the other hand, would be 15 treads at 10 inches per tread, resulting in a total run of 150 inches. To determine the overall length of the stair, you must add the nosing of the bottom step and the thickness of the top riser. Therefore, the total stair length would be 152 inches.
Next, calculate the length of the stairwell or the width of the upper floor's vertical shaft where the stairs are located. This involves accounting for the required headroom and the upper-floor construction. Divide the total thickness of the upper-floor construction and the desired headroom height by the riser height to determine the number of treads needed in the clear opening. The stairwell length needed for proper headroom can be calculated by multiplying the number of treads in the clear opening by the tread depth dimension. For example, a stairwell length of 127 7/16 inches may be required.
Cutting the Stair
Once you have your layout plans in order, it's time to start cutting the stair. Remember to measure twice and cut once to avoid unnecessary expenses and wastage of materials. Ensure your work area is clean and well-lit for optimal precision and ease during the cutting process.
How To Build Stair Stringers
To begin the actual stair project, lay out the stringers. This involves setting the rise and run of the stair on a framing square and marking off the required number of treads and risers. Start with the first riser and end with the top riser, and draw in the second floor line. Count the number of risers to avoid any layout errors. Repeat this procedure for all three stringers.
After marking the treads and risers, make final adjustments to the stair stringer. Tweaking the design may be necessary to ensure that all risers are in code compliance. Adjust the top and bottom risers if needed. Once the stringers are successfully laid out, cut off the triangular portions, being cautious not to cut beyond the marked layout lines. Use a power saw for this task and a handsaw for cutting out the remaining triangles.
After cutting out all three stringers, place them together to ensure they match perfectly. With three well-matched stringers, position the left and right stringers on top of the skirt boards. Trace the cut lines where the stringer meets the floor and top riser, and make a plumb cut on the bottom of the board. Attach the skirt boards to the stringers and nail them on top of the drywall or fill them out to match the thickness of the drywall. Lastly, mount the center stringer to the top header and attach it to the blocking at the floor.
Stair Inspection and Finishing Touches
Your stair is now complete, except for the wall or handrail. If your stair is located between two walls, you will need to install a wall-mounted handrail to meet code compliance. The handrail should be mounted at a height of 34 inches above the leading edge of the tread, and it should be 198 inches in length. Use wall rail brackets screwed into studs or backing every 4 feet. If there is an open rail section, mount the balusters on an angle cap.
In conclusion, building stairs requires attention to detail and adherence to safety standards. It is an art that takes practice and patience to master. By following this DIY guide, you'll be able to construct a high-quality stair that meets both form and function requirements. Remember to take precise measurements, choose quality materials, and double-check your cuts for a successful stair-building project. Happy stair construction!
(Note: The original article contained images that have been referenced in the Markdown but are not displayed here. Please refer to the original article for the complete visual experience.)
