Sephardi: Cooking the History, Hélène Jawhara Piñer’s new cookbook, takes us on a journey through Jewish history, uncovering dishes that were once prepared during times of adversity. Food became a way for Jewish communities to express and preserve their identity. In this article, we delve into a recipe excerpted from the book, featuring the Isfeng Andalusian Donuts. Let's explore the story behind these delightful treats.
The Rich History of Isfeng: A Fried Pastry with Deep Roots
Also known as sfenğ, the Isfeng Andalusian Donut is a popular treat among both Jews and Muslims, particularly in Morocco and Israel. In Spain, it is referred to as "esponja," derived from the Arabic term "sjenğ" meaning "sponge." This recipe has a long history dating back to the thirteenth century in al-Andalus, where similar dishes were enjoyed.
Today, you can find street vendors in Morocco preparing these mouthwatering donuts, but they hold a special significance for Jews during Hanukkah. This Jewish holiday, also known as the "Festival of Lights," spans eight nights and days to commemorate the miracle of the menorah candle in the Second Temple. The oil that should have lasted only a day burned for eight, giving the Jews ample time to finish constructing the temple. To honor this sacred oil, it has become a tradition to eat fried foods during Hanukkah.
Isfeng: The Andalusian Donut Recipe
Let's take a look at the recipe for these delightful Isfeng Andalusian Donuts:
INGREDIENTS
- 1 tbsp fresh yeast
- ⅓ cup (70 ml) lukewarm water
- 3 cups (450 g) flour
- 2 tsp sugar
- ½ tbsp salt
- 1 ⅔ cup (330 ml) lukewarm water
- Neutral oil for frying
INSTRUCTIONS
- In a small bowl, dilute the fresh yeast with lukewarm water.
- In a large bowl or food processor, combine the dissolved yeast, flour, sugar, and salt. Mix using a hook attachment, gradually adding the water. The dough should be sticky.
- Mix for 15 minutes, then cover the bowl and let it rest overnight or for at least 4 hours.
- Heat oil in a frying pan or deep fryer over medium-high heat.
- Lightly wet your hands and take a portion of the dough, roughly the size of a golf ball.
- Make a hole in the middle of the dough and stretch it well. Fry the dough for 30 seconds to one minute, flipping it over once.
- Isfeng Andalusian Donuts are typically enjoyed as they are, but you can sprinkle them with sugar or lightly dip them in honey if you prefer a sweeter taste.
Isfeng Andalusian Donuts: A delicious treat with a history as rich as its flavor.
Preserving Heritage Through Food: Sephardi Culinary Treasures
Hélène Jawhara Piñer's cookbook, Sephardi: Cooking the History, offers more than just recipes. It serves as a window into the world of Sephardi Jews, showcasing the unique dishes and traditions they've carried throughout the centuries. Here are a few other culinary gems from Piñer's collection:
Sweet Fried Eggplant
Eggplants have become a true culinary love story for Sephardic Jews from various regions such as Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Morocco, and beyond. Traditionally, eggplant dishes are prepared to break the fast in Jewish communities and are cherished for their exquisite flavors.
Tortitas de Acelga
Piñer's Tortitas de Acelga recipe combines the key ingredients of Sephardic cuisine from Spain: Swiss chard, eggs, garlic, and olive oil. This delightful Passover dish incorporates chickpea flour, adding depth to its unique taste.
Makrūt and Neulas Encanonadas
Maqrūt, another delightful treat, is a fried honey pastry commonly enjoyed by Jews and Muslims in Morocco. This recipe showcases the flavors of thirteenth-century al-Andalus and has become associated with holidays such as Ramadan and Rosh Hashana.
Sephardi: Cooking the History can be purchased through your favorite bookstore or online, allowing you to explore more of these fascinating recipes and stories.
Isfeng Andalusian Donuts offer more than just a delicious culinary experience. They serve as a link to an ancient past, a reminder of the resilience and strength of Jewish communities throughout history. So, gather your loved ones, celebrate Hanukkah, and savor the flavors of tradition.
